There were a considerable number of tourists near the harbor, despite the fact that it was mid-September and past peak season. However even with the crowds and the cool fall weather and the intermittent rain, the town evinced a certain welcoming charm. The tall, narrow buildings lining the harbor filled with sailing ships drew one inescapably back to an earlier time before tourism replaced trade and fishing as economic mainstays.
Now days, of course, trade and fishing have been relegated to other areas outside the historic port, or Vieux Bassin, and the waterfront is lined with restaurants and art galleries. The Honfleur of old that inspired Monet, Courbet and other painters is, nonetheless, still discernable. It is most definitely worth a visit.
Our walking, mostly undirected, eventually put us in front of the restaurant Entre Terre et Mer. The timing was doubly fortuitous since it was almost exactly the time our reservation specified and because the rain, which had been intermittent all morning, was threatening to start again at any minute.
We settled into our seats in the warmed, enclosed patio area. I had had some concern that the wait staff might insist on French for ordering, but we were greeted in passable English, given an English menu and made to feel quite at home, so easy sailing.
Our lunch order, like many other places on this trip, tended to self-indulgence with the idea that we would probably never get a chance to come back. In the case of Entre Terre et Mer, the order consisted of a 63 euros (for two people) seven course tasting menu with three glasses of wine for an additional 35 euros. (I am not counting the amuse bouche or the final mignardises).
We had a very good meal at Entre Terre et Mer and both of us enjoyed it immensely. The food in general was presented rather simply and was not at all fussy. The quality of the ingredients and the skill of the kitchen staff were allowed to speak for themselves, one might say. The final result was that we had a meal that was satisfying and filling, but did not leave us feeling overly full.
Looking back at the pictures, it seems we had a lot of alcohol, but I remember being quite sober as we left the restaurant. Indeed, we spent another pleasant hour or so walking in Honfleur before returning to the cruise ship.
Entre Terre et Mer is listed in the Michelin Guide, which also makes a point of mentioning their interesting wine list. As I noted above, the three wines we had were quite enjoyable and paired well with the courses they accompanied. The restaurant’s website may be found by clicking here.